Heavenly Sky.

December 26, 2003. San Lorenzo Canal, BCS, Mexico.

Northing Xmas.

December 25, 2003. Isla Espirito Santo, BCS, Mexico.

we left here around the 11th, took 22 hrs to make bahia frailes, and had to wait out a norther for 3 days. got underway for vallarta with a double reef on the tail end of the blow, and the transmission went out within sight of the anchorage. sailed back in, arrived at 3 options, and waited out another fierce norther, and got underway to lapaz for repairs.

with no engine, we had to stand off the land mass and had a lively 30 hr starboard tack making as much northing as needed to lay la paz. About 5 hrs into the port tack we were completely becalmed with no land in sight {thankfully} but were drifting SSW[through all tides!] for over 30 hours and lost much of our northing. We attempted the Cerallvo canal but were denied after many tacks. we spent one night in bahia muertos. next day we stood off again to make northing outside of isla cerallvo and were hit with an unpredicted light/moderate norther for a day or so [6 to 8 ft seas with an occasional 10 about 6 seconds apart and 25 knot winds] thats when sandy and i decided Gitano del Mar was the proper vessel for our endeavors.

Above the island we were becalmed within 4 miles of navigational hazards and began to deploy the dingy as a tow vessel. around 3 am we had enough wind to sail again. We made a large protected anchorage on the south side of Isla espirito sancto early Christmas eve for needed sleep/rest and land hikes. we saw no people but lots of wildlife..it was wonderful.

y'day, underway in the first southerly in 2 months so of course so we had to tack our way to la paz only to become calmed 800 yards short of the marina. I used the dink to tow Gitano, and made a slip at dusk with many hands on deck to assist and an ovation to welcome us to dock #9.

so it took us 7 or 8 days to get back to la paz. A very rich experience neither of us would trade for anything.

merry christmas everyone, and good will toward men...steve / sandy

Becalmed.

December 21, 2003. Sea of Cortes, BCS, Mexico.

Out of sight of land. Becalmed and adrift without engine in the middle of the Sea of Cortes.

The Truck.

December 11, 2004. Zona de Yonkes, La Paz, BCS, Mexico.

We are free of the white trash….the camper truck that is, and quite the scene it was. In the “zona de jonkes”..a new industry here as there were few vehicles 30 years ago, driving skills attest. It was a 3 way package. Truck, moto, and casita with all the contents. 20 or 30 wrecking yards strewn haphazardly along dusty dirt road with REAL junk yard dogs….Oh please senor…do not sell to that bandit…I will have the money come saturday…yeah right.

Over two years of my life spent in that box since 1989. Most all on the beach, on the point break, and all 700 of them blessed.

We intend to make the three day crossing to vallarta next week. The emergency frequencies are:

primary.. amigo net, 7 am mst (1400Z), 8122 Mz upper side band secondary.. sonrisa net, 1500Z, 3968 Mz, lower side band chubasco net, 1530Z, 7294 Mz, lower side band.

Also marina paradise village can be called at 011-52-322-226-6728 and I’m sure they can reach us through the local VHF net that we will be listening to in case of emergency.

We are going to swing on the hook at a point break called punta de mita, and see if we can work on sandy’s surfing skills.

Love to all, and no we don’t miss work, but walking through the freshly cut Douglas-fir Christmas trees the other day brought back the pleasant scent that was work.

Thanksgiving, November 2003.

La Paz, BCS, Mexico.

It is hard to believe that the end of November is upon us. We think of you often and our conversations are enriched with memories and stories of times spent with you. As the holidays approach, we hope that you are looking forward to wonderful plans and feasts.

The weather here is cooling and is imbued with Northers that blow and blow and blow and blow (20 to 35 and sometimes up to 40 knots) leaving us feeling quite content to remain "on the hard" for the moment and not in the rocking and roiling sea. It is definitely time to head south to warmer and more friendly climes and we are hoping to be able to get the last few major tasks done and be on our way within the next couple of weeks.

Just the other day, we developed a couple of rolls of film including photographs of our road trip south through Baja. What a stormy venture that was -- a turbulent mix of scenes of unprecedented (for Baja) hurricane damage, uncertain weather reports and Bajanian rumors over the potential of two more hurricanes hitting landfall along our way. As we looked over our photographs, it was hard to tell that we had left Humboldt County -- except, of course, for the fact that the greenery coloring the landscape was cacti and not redwoods and ferns.

It is hard to believe that that trip was a month-and-a-half ago. We now find ourselves a bit more settled into life in La Paz. Steve has found the absolute best way to navigate the streets here -- via the "wash road" which is definitely set up for locals and not for tourists. It has no road signs, little traffic and almost no stopping for traffic control. In addition to the "wash road," we have a short list of favorite streets that we know have few or little traffic stops and can get us to whatever our destination in quick time. Our trips to town, now, almost always include a trip for some Jalisco style beef stew and a copy of the local English-language newspaper. Still, in spite of our hard-won skills, town trips that would take an hour in the states are never completed as planned (or, more honestly, as hoped for) and can take at least three hours to complete and/or given up for lost. Shops are small by US-standards and are very specialized and are often found in common block size areas. So if we have a list including groceries, beer, engine and boat items, we are looking at having to make at least six to ten different stops running a maze of crowded narrow streets filled with people that -- Steve is fond of pointing out -- "just got a car a few years ago and have never been taught to drive." Oh, and we best not forget that siesta is from 1 to 3pm for which shops close for business -- I can't count the number of times of I have been reminded of siesta as I gazed longingly at items on our list through the shaded glass of locked store doors.

Yet life in La Paz takes no notice of these missteps. Any hard-edged frustration drawn from the experience and expectation of a life lived in the states, falls upon deaf ears. Life is quite simply good. Our days are blessed with a breeze and the kiss of the sunÖand graced with love. Our life is good and true here...and we can think of no better way to send our message on to you than from the heart and to bid you adieu in the Costa Rican fashion...

Pura Vida (pure life).

Maiden Voyage, May 2003.

Sea of Cortes, BCS, Mexico.

May 5^th at 1410 hours, we cast away the lines from the dock and set sail on our maiden voyage aboard the Gitano del Mar. At last, the dream unfolds….

Under sail. Mainsail. Jib. Autopilot. Wind. No wind. Anchor. Caleta Candiletas. Chop. Roll. Dragging anchor. Bahia San Jose. Calm. Los Gatos. Dolphins on the bow. Isla Monserrate. Jelly fish stings. Lunar eclipse. Bladder tank. Engine off. Engine on. Wing on wing. Juanico. Bahia de Concepcion. Santo Domingo. Fog. Isla Coronado. Stop for a swim while underway. Starter out. Sail to anchorage. Panga to Loreto to repair starter. Honeymoon Cove. Agua Verde. Los Gatos. Impressive dolphin show. Danzante. Agua Verde. Isla Monseratte. Los Gatos. San Evaristo. Isla San Francisco. Fuel leak. Last day for Sandy on Gitano. 24.24. Heavy wind. Arrive at Ballandra at night. On the radio trying to locate rock at anchorage…”no problem,” boat at anchor already hit it and anchored near it…so hazard is marked for late night anchoring. Wind blows all night, 25 to 35 knots. Early morning departure. Bash. Decks awash. Arrive at the marina just in time to get Sandy to the bus stop. 2,263 nautical miles.

We are hooked…

...

Maiden Voyage

The Sailboat.

February 2003, La Paz, BCS, Mexico.

It's official! Steve just purchased the Gitano del Mar. We first saw the boat for sale on a New Year's trip to La Paz. Gitano is a 1969 Cal Cruising 36. She is small but loaded for cruising. Wow!